Open AccessSTATISTICAL DISTRIBUTION OF WAVE HEIGHTS IN CORRELATION WITH ENERQ7 SPECTRUM AND WATER DEPTH
Author(s) -
L.A. Koele,
P.A. de Bruyn
Publication year - 1964
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v9.8
Subject(s) - shore , wind wave , geology , wave height , gauge (firearms) , water level , significant wave height , geodesy , tide gauge , distribution (mathematics) , geometry , sea level , geography , mathematics , oceanography , cartography , mathematical analysis , archaeology
Wave motion has been studied at various places in the south western part of the Netherlands (the Delta area) as part of a study on coastal morphology and the design of coastal structures. The main part of this study deals with the statistical distribution of wave heights in relation to: a. the height of the sea surface at fixed points, as a function of time; b. the water depth; c. the energy spectrum of the wave motion. The results of theoretical studies by D.E.Cartwright and M.S.Longuet Higgins (lit. 1) and data on wave measurements obtained by Rijkswaterstaat in the North Sea were used. These measurements were taken by means of an electrical step-capacity gauge, with wireless
transmission of the data to shore . Three gauges, fastened to fixed poles (named E, X and T) were placed at points at depths of 5, 10 and 15 meters respectively, (fig. 1).