Open AccessWAVE ENERGY AND LITTORAL TRANSPORT
Author(s) -
José Castanho
Publication year - 1964
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v9.17
Subject(s) - shore , littoral zone , geology , breaking wave , oblique case , line (geometry) , energy (signal processing) , physics , geometry , wave propagation , oceanography , optics , quantum mechanics , linguistics , philosophy , mathematics
As is known the breaking of oblique waves generates currents roughly parallel to the shore line usually designated by long shore currents. The intensity of these currents which are present almost exclusively between the breaking line and the shore depends on the characteristics of the waves (angle of approach, height and period) and on the characteristics of the shore (slope and roughness). A certain amount of energy E is transmitted by the breaking wave along its direction of propagation. As this is a transmitted energy, it is possible to speak about its component parallel to the shoreline which would be indicated by E sen a , being the angle of approach of waves, i.e. the angle that crests make with the shoreline .