TSUNAMI RUNUP AMPLIFICATION OF BREAKING AND NON-BREAKING ERROR-FUNCTION WAVES OVER A SLOPING BEACH IN SHADOW ZONE BY A SMALL ISLAND
Author(s) -
Sunghoon Han,
James M. Kaihatu,
Patrick Lynett,
Costas E. Synolakis
Publication year - 2020
Publication title -
coastal engineering proceedings
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v36v.papers.13
Subject(s) - crest , geology , superposition principle , surf zone , range (aeronautics) , breaking wave , elevation (ballistics) , shadow zone , rayleigh wave , seismology , wind wave , shadow (psychology) , surface wave , optics , geodesy , physics , geometry , wave propagation , mathematics , seismic wave , oceanography , materials science , psychology , quantum mechanics , composite material , psychotherapist
The time series of free surface elevation measured in and outside the shadow zone were compared and analyzed in the time-frequency domain by employing the continuous wavelet transform. Regardless of the conditions of the ERF wave in the shadow zone, an increase in magnitude of energy is noticeable not only in the peak frequency within a range of approximately 0.8 to 1 Hz but also in the low-frequency range of around 0.1 Hz corresponding to second up to third crest of the leading wave. To determine the effective frequency of ERF waves and evaluate their runup characteristics, we applied a new method of describing the ERF wave, which consists of linear superposition of two solitary waves. As a result, the ERF waves show the same trend in runup characteristics as for solitary waves.
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