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FLOW CHARACTERISTICS IN SWASH OF TRANSIENT LONG WAVES
Author(s) -
Nimish Pujara,
Philip L.F. Liu
Publication year - 2018
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v36.currents.50
Subject(s) - swash , transient flow , geology , transient (computer programming) , flow (mathematics) , flooding (psychology) , sediment transport , mechanics , geotechnical engineering , shallow water equations , environmental science , marine engineering , sediment , engineering , surge , geomorphology , oceanography , computer science , physics , psychology , psychotherapist , operating system
The flow of water on a beach is of fundamental importance in coastal engineering. It controls the sediment transport and hence beach morphology. It also affects coastal structures through forces imparted on them and coastal flooding when beach overtopping occurs. The most common approach to numerically model this flow is to use depth-averaged equations (also known as shallow water equations). However, there is a lack of fundamental understanding of the flow produced by different transient wave forms. A better understanding would lead to better validation of numerical models. It would also allow engineers to more easily evaluate fluid forces on coastal structures and the risks of beach overtopping without the need to carry out expensive numerical simulations.

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