Open AccessON THE TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE STATISTICS DUE TO SHOALING
Author(s) -
E.P.D. Mansard,
E.R. Funke,
J.S. Readshaw,
R.K. Girard
Publication year - 1988
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.7
Subject(s) - shoaling and schooling , wave shoaling , submarine pipeline , wave height , significant wave height , wave setup , geology , wind wave , breaking wave , environmental science , statistics , meteorology , oceanography , wave propagation , physics , mathematics , optics , mechanical wave , longitudinal wave
The results of a 1:40 scale physical model investigation into the shoaling process are described. The model simulated a nearly constant slope of 1:40 with wave measurements made at a depth of approximately 25 and 9 m. Two hundred individual tests were undertaken, with four offshore significant wave heights as the only test variant. The results indicate that the most severe nearshore wave conditions do not occur with the worst offshore conditions. There is evidence of a significant increase in low frequency wave energy in the nearshore zone.