KINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES IN COASTAL REGIONS | Zendy

W. J. Easson | Zendy; Matthew W.P. Griffiths | Zendy; Clive Greated | Zendy

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KINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES IN COASTAL REGIONS

Author(s) -

W. J. Easson,

Matthew W.P. Griffiths,

Clive Greated

Publication year - 1988

Publication title -

coastal engineering proceedings

Language(s) - English

Resource type - Journals

eISSN - 2156-1028

pISSN - 0589-087X

DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.65

Subject(s) - breaking wave , crest , wave flume , kinematics , geology , flume , parametric statistics , independence (probability theory) , scale (ratio) , consistency (knowledge bases) , wave shoaling , mechanics , geodesy , wave propagation , physics , mechanical wave , mathematics , optics , flow (mathematics) , geometry , classical mechanics , statistics , longitudinal wave , quantum mechanics

Waves breaking on various slopes in a wave flume are examined. Plunging and spilling breakers are considered. The parametric results show the consistency of the measurement and the independence of scale. A method is given for predicting the maximum breaking height for a wave of known period in a known depth. The velocity is measured to the crest of the wave and comparisions with numerical and analytical solutions demonstrate the shortcomings of many of the established methods of predicting wave kinematics.

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