Open AccessKINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES IN COASTAL REGIONS
Author(s) -
W. J. Easson,
Matthew W.P. Griffiths,
Clive Greated
Publication year - 1988
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.65
Subject(s) - breaking wave , crest , wave flume , kinematics , geology , flume , parametric statistics , independence (probability theory) , scale (ratio) , consistency (knowledge bases) , wave shoaling , mechanics , geodesy , wave propagation , physics , mechanical wave , mathematics , optics , flow (mathematics) , geometry , classical mechanics , statistics , longitudinal wave , quantum mechanics
Waves breaking on various slopes in a wave flume are examined. Plunging and spilling breakers are considered. The parametric results show the consistency of the measurement and the independence of scale. A method is given for predicting the maximum breaking height for a wave of known period in a known depth. The velocity is measured to the crest of the wave and comparisions with numerical and analytical solutions demonstrate the shortcomings of many of the established methods of predicting wave kinematics.