Open AccessNONLINEAR EFFECTS ON FOCUSSED WATER WAVES
Author(s) -
D.H. Peregrine,
D. Skyner,
M. Stiassnie,
N. Dodd
Publication year - 1988
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.54
Subject(s) - nonlinear system , diffraction , nonlinear schrödinger equation , physics , modulation (music) , statistical physics , mathematics , optics , quantum mechanics , acoustics
A brief account is given of theory and experiments for water wave focussing. The theory uses weakly nonlinear wave modulation theory, that is the nonlinear Schrodinger equation, summarises earlier theoretical papers and augments them with numerical results. Experiments were performed to compare with theory. The limited comparison shown here indicates that the theory gives satisfactory results even for waves close to breaking. Both the numerical and experimental results indicate the importance of linear diffraction when waves are focussed. The relevance of diffraction is easily assessed, and is likely to dominate in many coastal examples of weak focussing.