Open AccessA DIRECTIONAL PREDICTION MODEL OF WAVES WITH VARIABLE WIND
Author(s) -
Juan R. Acinas
Publication year - 1988
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.51
Subject(s) - meteorology , wind wave , geology , wind direction , ideal (ethics) , wind speed , physics , acoustics , oceanography , philosophy , epistemology
A model of the response of the direction of the waves to changing winds is presented. First the theoretical results that associate an average direction of energy propagation to every wave component is introduced. From this model, numerical results are presented both by simulations of ideal wind veering situations and compared with field data taken from pitch and roll buoys.