
WAVES IN TURNING WIND FIELDS
Author(s) -
M.J.M. Smulders,
L.H. Holthuijsen
Publication year - 1988
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.43
Subject(s) - wind wave , wind wave model , wind direction , wind speed , meteorology , nonlinear system , physics , significant wave height , electromagnetic spectrum , wavelength , wind profile power law , surface wave , geology , mechanics , geophysics , optics , quantum mechanics , thermodynamics
A numerical model to compute to a high degree of accuracy nonlinear wave-wave interactions of wind generated waves supplemented with formulations of wind generation and white-capping, has been used to estimate qualitatively and quantitatively the effect of these physical processes on the directional response of waves in a turning wind field. After a sudden shift in wind direction the wave spectrum develops a secondary peak in the new wind direction. The initial peak of the spectrum either merges fairly quickly with this new peak or it slowly disappears, depending on the magnitude of the directional wind shift. The turning of the mean wave direction towards the new wind direction is caused by wind generation. The processes of nonlinear wave-wave interactions and white-capping tend to slow down the turning rate induced by the wind generation. The net turning rate of the mean wave direction in the model is twice as slow as in observations acquired in the central and southern North Sea.