Open AccessA NUMERICAL MODEL OF WAVE DEFORMATION IN SURF ZONE
Author(s) -
Akira Watanabe,
Mohammad Dibajnia
Publication year - 1988
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.41
Subject(s) - surf zone , breaking wave , dissipation , computation , geology , shore , deformation (meteorology) , mechanics , wave height , wave setup , shoaling and schooling , wave shoaling , term (time) , wave propagation , physics , mechanical wave , longitudinal wave , mathematics , oceanography , optics , algorithm , thermodynamics , quantum mechanics
A numerical model is presented for nearshore wave deformation due to shoaling and breaking, and to decay and recovery in the surf zone. The model is based on a set of time-dependent mild slope equations including a term of wave energy dissipation caused by breaking. Its applicability is demonstrated by comparisons between the computations and the measurements of cross-shore distributions of the wave height and potential energy over typical beach configurations.