Open AccessGENERALIZED WAVE THEORY FOR A SLOPING BED
Author(s) -
D.H. Swart,
J.B. Crowley
Publication year - 1988
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v21.12
Subject(s) - kinematic wave , kinematics , boundary (topology) , free surface , surface (topology) , boundary value problem , geology , mechanics , geometry , geotechnical engineering , mathematical analysis , classical mechanics , mathematics , physics , ecology , surface runoff , biology
This paper discusses the development from first principles of a first-order solution for non-breaking waves on a gently sloping bottom. The theory is derived in a similar fashion as was done by Swart and Loubser (1978) for vocoidal waves on a horizontal bottom. The resulting covocoidal theory was compared to an extensive data set for waves over a sloping bottom (Nelson, 1981) and is tested for analytical validity. It adheres exactly to continuity and the kinematic free surface boundary condition, and shows comparable errors in the dynamic free surface boundary condition to that found for the better, general horizontal bed wave theories.