Open AccessLENGTHS OF RUNS OF JUST BREAKING AND BROKEN WAVES IN IRREGULAR WAVE TRAIN ON GENTLE SLOPES
Author(s) -
Koichiro Iwata,
Shunji Ito
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.89
Subject(s) - breaking wave , geology , shore , distribution (mathematics) , mechanics , meteorology , geometry , physics , mathematics , wave propagation , mathematical analysis , optics , oceanography
This paper is aimed to investigate theoretically and experimentally the variations of the probability distribution and mean values of the run length and total run length of just breaking and broken waves in an irregular wave train on gentle slopes. The theoretical model developed here is shown to be valid for evaluating the lengths of runs of just and broken waves from deep water up to the shoreline.