Open AccessDIRECTIONAL NEARSHORE WAVE PROPAGATION AND INDUCED CURRENTS
Author(s) -
M.W. Dingemans,
M.J.F. Stive,
J. Bosma,
H.J. de Vriend,
J.A. Vogel
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.81
Subject(s) - refraction , computation , wave propagation , current (fluid) , dissipation , geology , waves and shallow water , transformation (genetics) , field (mathematics) , geophysics , surface wave , wave model , acoustics , physics , meteorology , optics , computer science , oceanography , mathematics , biochemistry , algorithm , gene , pure mathematics , thermodynamics , chemistry
Recently, a depth and current refraction model has been developed for the computation of directionally spread, random wave propagation in coastal regions (Booij et al., 1985). For the verification of the performance of this model laboratory measurements in a directional, shallow water wave basin were conducted. Specific attention was given to the verification of the new features of the numerical model, viz. the effects of directional spreading and ambient current field on the wave propagation and transformation process, and the change of characteristic spectral wave frequency due to wave dissipation processes.