
RANDOM BREAKING WAVES HORIZONTAL SEABED
Author(s) -
Hans Peter Riedel,
Anthony Paul Byrne
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.68
Subject(s) - seabed , flume , wave flume , geology , wave height , wind wave , horizontal and vertical , breaking wave , significant wave height , geotechnical engineering , wave propagation , geometry , geodesy , optics , oceanography , mathematics , physics , flow (mathematics)
According to wave theories the depth limited wave height over a horizontal seabed has a wave height to water depth ratio (H/d) of about 0.8. Flume experiments with monochromatic waves over a horizontal seabed have failed to produce H/d ratios greater than 0.55. However designers still tend to use H/d 0.8 for their design waves. Experiments have been carried out using random wave trains in the flume over a horizontal seabed. These experiments have shown that the limiting H/d ratio of 0.55 applies equally well to random waves.