Open AccessNONLINEAR THEORY ON PARTICLE VELOCITY AND PRESSURE OF RANDOM WAVES
Author(s) -
YiYu Kuo,
Hwar-Ming Wang
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.34
Subject(s) - nonlinear system , airy wave theory , spectral density , stokes wave , particle velocity , fourier transform , particle (ecology) , displacement (psychology) , physics , particle displacement , mathematical analysis , mechanics , wave shoaling , classical mechanics , mathematics , optics , wave propagation , breaking wave , quantum mechanics , mechanical wave , longitudinal wave , geology , amplitude , statistics , oceanography , psychology , psychotherapist
In this paper, to the third approximation, we used the Fourierstieltjes integral rather than Fourier coefficient to develop a weakly nonlinear theory. From the theory, the nonlinear spectral components for water particle velocity and wave pressure can be calculated directly from the directional spectrum of water surface displacement. Computed results based on the nonlinear theory were compared with that of experiment made by Anastasiou (1982). Furthermore, in accordance with the different characteristics of wave properties, such as wave steepness, water depth and so on, the nonlinear effects on wave kinematic and pressure properties were extensively investigated by using some standard power spectra.