Open AccessCIRCULATION KINEMATICS IN NONLINEAR LABORATORY WAVES
Author(s) -
Taein Kim,
Robert T. Hudspeth,
Wojciech Sulisz
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.30
Subject(s) - kinematics , piston (optics) , kinematic wave , nonlinear system , mechanics , physics , boundary (topology) , harmonic , mathematical analysis , wave flume , variable (mathematics) , mathematics , wave propagation , classical mechanics , acoustics , breaking wave , wavefront , optics , ecology , quantum mechanics , surface runoff , biology
A weakly nonlinear solution is presented for the two-dimensional wave kinematics forced by a generic wavemaker of variable-draft. The solution is valid for both piston and hinged wavemakers of variable draft that may be double articulated. The second-order propagating waves generated by a planar wave board are composed of two components; viz., a Stokes second-order wave and a second-harmonic wave forced by the wavemaker which travels at a different speed. A previously neglected time-independent solution that is required to satisfy a kinematic boundary condition on the wavemaker as well as a mixed boundary condition on the free surface is included for the first time. A component of the time-independent solution is found to accurately estimate the mean return current (correct to second-order) in a closed wave flume. This mean return current is usually estimated from kinematic considerations by a conservation of mass principle.