Open AccessMATHEMATICAL MODELLING OF WAVE-INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS
Author(s) -
Dong-Hoon Yoo,
Brian A. O’Connor
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.122
Subject(s) - advection , current (fluid) , mixing (physics) , refraction , wave model , meteorology , mathematical model , diffraction , geology , mechanics , breaking wave , climatology , wave propagation , physics , oceanography , optics , quantum mechanics , thermodynamics
The paper presents a mathematical model for describing wave climate and wave-induced nearshore circulations. The model accounts for current-depth refraction, diffraction, wave-induced currents, set-up and set-down, mixing processes and bottom friction effects on both waves and currents. The present model was tested against published experimental data on wave conditions within a model harbour and shown to give very good results for both wave and current fields. The importance of including processes such as advection, flooding and current-interaction in coastal models was demonstrated by comparing the numerical results without each process to the results from the complete scheme.