MATHEMATICAL MODELLING OF WAVE-INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS | Zendy

Dong-Hoon Yoo | Zendy; Brian A. O’Connor | Zendy

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MATHEMATICAL MODELLING OF WAVE-INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS

Author(s) -

Dong-Hoon Yoo,

Brian A. O’Connor

Publication year - 1986

Publication title -

coastal engineering proceedings

Language(s) - English

Resource type - Journals

eISSN - 2156-1028

pISSN - 0589-087X

DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.122

Subject(s) - advection , current (fluid) , mixing (physics) , refraction , wave model , meteorology , mathematical model , diffraction , geology , mechanics , breaking wave , climatology , wave propagation , physics , oceanography , optics , quantum mechanics , thermodynamics

The paper presents a mathematical model for describing wave climate and wave-induced nearshore circulations. The model accounts for current-depth refraction, diffraction, wave-induced currents, set-up and set-down, mixing processes and bottom friction effects on both waves and currents. The present model was tested against published experimental data on wave conditions within a model harbour and shown to give very good results for both wave and current fields. The importance of including processes such as advection, flooding and current-interaction in coastal models was demonstrated by comparing the numerical results without each process to the results from the complete scheme.

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