NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES | Zendy

Hitoshi Nishimura | Zendy; Tsuguo Sunamura | Zendy

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NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES

Author(s) -

Hitoshi Nishimura,

Tsuguo Sunamura

Publication year - 1986

Publication title -

coastal engineering proceedings

Language(s) - English

Resource type - Journals

eISSN - 2156-1028

pISSN - 0589-087X

DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.106

Subject(s) - surf zone , hindcast , sediment transport , breaking wave , scale (ratio) , submarine pipeline , marine engineering , geology , transformation (genetics) , meteorology , scale model , mechanics , sediment , geotechnical engineering , engineering , physics , wave propagation , geomorphology , optics , biochemistry , chemistry , quantum mechanics , aerospace engineering , gene

This paper presents an overall numerical model for predicting beach profile changes due to waves. The local rate of net on/offshore sediment transport is empirically formulated as a function of the Ursell number and Hallermeier parameter. A sub-model of two-dimensional wave transformation includes the wave shoaling, breaking and damping in a surf zone. It is combined with another sub-model of beach profile change for the analyses of wave-profile interaction. The validity of the model is examined through hindcasting of profile changes observed in ordinary and prototype-scale flumes.

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