Open AccessNUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGES
Author(s) -
Hitoshi Nishimura,
Tsuguo Sunamura
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.106
Subject(s) - surf zone , hindcast , sediment transport , breaking wave , scale (ratio) , submarine pipeline , marine engineering , geology , transformation (genetics) , meteorology , scale model , mechanics , sediment , geotechnical engineering , engineering , physics , wave propagation , geomorphology , optics , biochemistry , chemistry , quantum mechanics , aerospace engineering , gene
This paper presents an overall numerical model for predicting beach profile changes due to waves. The local rate of net on/offshore sediment transport is empirically formulated as a function of the Ursell number and Hallermeier parameter. A sub-model of two-dimensional wave transformation includes the wave shoaling, breaking and damping in a surf zone. It is combined with another sub-model of beach profile change for the analyses of wave-profile interaction. The validity of the model is examined through hindcasting of profile changes observed in ordinary and prototype-scale flumes.