Open AccessLABORATORY STUDY ON TWO-DIMENSIONAL BEACH TRANSFORMATION DUE TO IRREGULAR WAVES
Author(s) -
Nubuo Mimura,
Yukinori Otsuka,
Akira Watanabe
Publication year - 1986
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v20.102
Subject(s) - geology , ripple , breaking wave , transformation (genetics) , wave propagation , train , wave setup , mechanical wave , mechanics , geophysics , longitudinal wave , physics , optics , geography , cartography , biochemistry , chemistry , quantum mechanics , voltage , gene
In the present study, effects of irregular waves on two-dimensional beach transformation and related phenomena were investigated through a series of laboratory experiments. Attempts were made to determine a representative wave of irregular wave trains which controlled individual phenomenon related to the two-dimensional beach profile change. It was found that the representative wave is different for each phenomenon. For the macroscopic beach profile change, it is the mean wave which represents whole incident waves. On the other hand, some of microscopic phenomena, such as initiation of sand movement and sand ripple formation, are controlled by larger waves in the wave train selectively, of which representative wave is the significant wave.