Open AccessCURRENT DEPTH REFRACTION OF REGULAR WAVES
Author(s) -
Ivar G. Jonsson,
John B. Christoffersen
Publication year - 1984
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v19.75
Subject(s) - refraction , ray tracing (physics) , dissipation , gravitational wave , current (fluid) , wave propagation , gravity wave , longitudinal wave , physics , surface wave , geology , optics , mechanics , astrophysics , thermodynamics
The complete set of equations for the refraction of small surface gravity waves on large-scale currents over a gradually varying sea bed is derived and presented. Wave lengths, direction of propagation and wave heights are all determined along the so-called wave rays as solutions to ordinary, first-order differential equations. Dissipation due to bed friction in the combined current wave motion is included. The ray tracing method is used in an example. A method for the calculation of current depth refraction of weakly non-linear waves is proposed.