CURRENT DEPTH REFRACTION OF REGULAR WAVES | Zendy

Ivar G. Jonsson | Zendy; John B. Christoffersen | Zendy

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CURRENT DEPTH REFRACTION OF REGULAR WAVES

Author(s) -

Ivar G. Jonsson,

John B. Christoffersen

Publication year - 1984

Publication title -

coastal engineering proceedings

Language(s) - English

Resource type - Journals

eISSN - 2156-1028

pISSN - 0589-087X

DOI - 10.9753/icce.v19.75

Subject(s) - refraction , ray tracing (physics) , dissipation , gravitational wave , current (fluid) , wave propagation , gravity wave , longitudinal wave , physics , surface wave , geology , optics , mechanics , astrophysics , thermodynamics

The complete set of equations for the refraction of small surface gravity waves on large-scale currents over a gradually varying sea bed is derived and presented. Wave lengths, direction of propagation and wave heights are all determined along the so-called wave rays as solutions to ordinary, first-order differential equations. Dissipation due to bed friction in the combined current wave motion is included. The ray tracing method is used in an example. A method for the calculation of current depth refraction of weakly non-linear waves is proposed.

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