Open AccessCOMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER
Author(s) -
James T. Kirby,
Philip L.F. Liu,
Sung Bum Yoon,
Robert A. Dalrymple
Publication year - 1984
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v19.68
Subject(s) - diffraction , waves and shallow water , refraction , nonlinear system , mathematical analysis , mathematics , domain (mathematical analysis) , physics , optics , quantum mechanics , thermodynamics
The parabolic approximation is developed to study the combined refraction/diffraction of weakly nonlinear shallow water waves. Two methods of approach are taken. In the first method Boussinesq equations are used to derive evolution equations for spectral wave components in a slowly varying two-dimensional domain. The second method modifies the equation of Kadomtsev s Petviashvili to include varying depth in two dimensions. Comparisons are made between present numerical results, experimental data and previous numerical calculations.