Open AccessSHOALING PROPERTIES OF BOUNDED LONG WAVES
Author(s) -
E.P.D. Mansard,
V. Barthel
Publication year - 1984
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v19.54
Subject(s) - shoaling and schooling , bounded function , kondratiev wave , wave shoaling , waves and shallow water , amplitude , wave propagation , physics , mechanical wave , mechanics , geology , mathematics , optics , mathematical analysis , longitudinal wave , oceanography , thermodynamics
Group bounded long waves which appear as a set-down under a group of high waves and a set-up in between groups are well described for constant water depth. However, their propagation into shallow water and their interaction with the constituent wave groups are not well understood and theoretically described yet. Therefore, model investigations were carried out to study shoaling properties of these second order waves in terms of amplitudes and phases. The tests give a good insight into the phenomenon and suggest distinct shoaling properties. Moreover, experimental results provide a valuable basis for future theoretical considerations.