Open AccessSHALLOW-WATER SPECTRAL WAVE MODELING
Author(s) -
Robert E. Jensen
Publication year - 1984
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v19.37
Subject(s) - wave shoaling , stokes wave , breaking wave , waves and shallow water , surface wave , wave model , wave propagation , wave height , plane wave , wave setup , parametric statistics , wind wave , significant wave height , geology , acoustics , physics , optics , meteorology , mechanical wave , mathematics , longitudinal wave , oceanography , statistics
A parametric shallow-water spectral wave modeling technique is developed and is tested against extensive field measurements of wave height, period and spectral shape. The wave model considers wave growth and finite water depth mechanisms such as spectral wave shoaling, wave-bottom interactions, wave-wave interactions and wave breaking. The key to this approach is that the resulting wave conditions are provided by transformation mechanisms rather than transforming spectral components during wave propagation. Thus long-term wave hindcasts can be performed economically without the loss in accuracy.