Open AccessA DYNAMICAL EXPRESSION OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER
Author(s) -
Yumi Tsuchiya,
Takashi Yasuda
Publication year - 1984
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v19.30
Subject(s) - swell , korteweg–de vries equation , waves and shallow water , physics , nonlinear system , expression (computer science) , wave propagation , internal wave , classical mechanics , mechanical wave , statistical physics , mechanics , longitudinal wave , optics , quantum mechanics , computer science , thermodynamics , programming language
Making the assumptions that solitons are one of the most elementary excitation in random nonlinear waves in shallow water and that the waves have a coherent dynamic structure of solitons, we attempt to describe the swell-like waves theoretically "by deriving the asymptotic multisoliton solution for the KdV equation. Formulations of the random wave profiles and internal properties are also made. We conclude from the comparisons between observed and theoretical results of the propagation characteristics of the swell-like random waves and their water particle velocities, that the waves in shallow water have a coherent dynamic structure of solitons and that the theoretical expression for the waves has practically sufficient accuracy in estimating their propagation.