Open AccessSHALLOW WATER WAVES: A SPECTRAL APPROACH
Author(s) -
C. Vincent
Publication year - 1984
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v19.26
Subject(s) - swell , wind wave , waves and shallow water , spectral line , transformation (genetics) , electromagnetic spectrum , limit (mathematics) , deep water , wave model , geology , meteorology , wind wave model , physics , oceanography , mathematics , mathematical analysis , optics , chemistry , biochemistry , astronomy , gene
Bouws et al. (1983, 1984) have shown that wind sea spectra in finite depth water can be described by a self-similar spectral equation that in the deep water limit is the JONSWAP spectrum (Hasselmann et al. 1973). This paper shows that the spectral parameter a is linked to wave steepness, for wind sea and swell; presents a simple model for wave transformation across the surf zone; and shows that the spectral theory provides data similar to the results of Bretschneider (1958) for shallow water wave growth.