RUN-UP OF PERIODIC WAVES ON BEACHES OF NON-UNIFORM SLOPE

Run-up of periodic waves on gentle or non-uniform slopes is discussed. Breaking condition and run-up height of non-breaking waves are derived "by the use of the linear long wave theory in the Lagrangian description. As to the breaking waves, the width of swash zone and the run-up height are-obtained for relatively gentle slopes (less than 1/30), on dividing the transformation of waves into dissipation and swash processes. The formula obtained here agrees with experimental data better than Hunt's formula does. The same procedure is applied to non-uniform slopes and is found to give better results than Saville's composite slope method.