Open AccessWATER WAVES PROPAGATING ON BEACHES OF ARBITRARY SHAPE
Author(s) -
Y.Y. Chen,
H. H. Hwung
Publication year - 1982
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v18.51
Subject(s) - shore , amplitude , dimensionless quantity , geology , standing wave , variation (astronomy) , wave motion , waves and shallow water , mechanics , geometry , geodesy , geomorphology , physics , oceanography , mathematics , acoustics , optics , astrophysics
When a small amplitude wave climbing along an arbitrary sloping beach from deep water toward the shore, the variation of characteristics in the process of wave motion has been described in this paper. From the results of theoretical derivation, it is found out that the variation of water surface and amplitude are function of beach slope) and dimensionless distance (kx~) from the shore. And under the condition of the beach slope is a = 0 and a = °o that the solution will become a progressive wave and a standing wave respectively.