Open AccessWAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION AND WAVE GROUPING IN SURF ZONE
Author(s) -
Hajime Mase,
Yuichi Iwagaki
Publication year - 1982
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v18.4
Subject(s) - surf zone , wave height , wave shoaling , wave setup , significant wave height , geology , transformation (genetics) , surface wave , stokes wave , distribution (mathematics) , wind wave , wave model , waves and shallow water , wave propagation , breaking wave , meteorology , mathematics , optics , geography , longitudinal wave , mechanical wave , physics , mathematical analysis , oceanography , biochemistry , chemistry , gene
The main purpose of this paper is to propose a model for prediction of the spatial distributions of representative wave heights and the frequency distributions of wave heights of irregular waves in shallow-water including the surf zone. In order to examine the validity of the model, some experiments of irregular wave transformation have been made. In addition, an attempt has been made to clarify the spatial distribution of wave grouping experimentally. Especially the present paper focuses finding the effects of the bottom slope and the deep-water wave steepness on the wave height distribution and wave grouping.