Open AccessENGINEERING APPROACH TO NONLINEAR WAVE SHOALING
Author(s) -
James M. Walker,
John R. Headland
Publication year - 1982
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v18.34
Subject(s) - shoaling and schooling , wave shoaling , breaking wave , waves and shallow water , nonlinear system , coastal engineering , wave height , engineering design process , geology , shoal , marine engineering , geotechnical engineering , mechanics , engineering , wave propagation , physics , oceanography , optics , mechanical wave , longitudinal wave , mechanical engineering , quantum mechanics
Determination of a design wave height at a coastal structure requires calculation of a shoaling coefficient or determination of the maximum probable breaking wave height at the point of interest. In shallow water over a sloping bottom, low steepness waves are not accurately predicted by linear shoaling coefficients. Empirical breaking indices are inconsistent with both linear and nonlinear wave theories. Nevertheless, the coastal engineer must select a design wave in order to responsibly design the structure. A graphical procedure is presented herein to relate the equivalent deepwater wave to a breaking wave as it transitions into shoaling water. The procedure provides the coastal engineer with a more consistent understanding of the shoaling process. The results furthermore identify regions of relative depth and steepness where discrepancies arise when using linear shoaling coefficients that may significantly alter engineering design and laboratory studies.