Open AccessINDIVIDUAL WAVE ANALYSIS OF IRREGULAR WAVE DEFORMATION IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE
Author(s) -
Masaru Mizuguchi
Publication year - 1982
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v18.32
Subject(s) - surf zone , monochromatic color , geology , shore , wave height , surface wave , deformation (meteorology) , wave shoaling , wind wave , wave setup , geodesy , longitudinal wave , wave propagation , geometry , mechanics , physics , mechanical wave , optics , mathematics , oceanography
In a field observation, water surface fluctuations were measured at many points on line from the shoreline to just outside the surf zone. The data were analyzed by an individual wave method, where the concept of primary individual wave is introduced in order to investigate irregular wave deformation. Primary individual waves are defined by applying the zero-down crossing method with a suitable band width at the zero level to the high-pass filtered water surface fluctuation. It is shown that a wave thus defined behaves like a regular wave with a fixed period in the nearshore zone. A deterministic model based on wave height change of monochromatic waves on non-uniform beaches is then introduced. The model is found to describe the observed deformation process expressed by the primary individual waves.