Open AccessBEACH RESPONSE TO VARIATIONS IN BREAKER HEIGHT
Author(s) -
Andrew D. Short
Publication year - 1980
Publication title -
coastal engineering proceedings
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v17.62
Subject(s) - circuit breaker , shore , rip current , bar (unit) , geology , circulation (fluid dynamics) , surf zone , oceanography , wave height , meteorology , mechanics , geography , physics , engineering , electrical engineering
The breaker wave height required to produce a particular beach-surfzone morphology is examined for micro-tidal, medium to fine sand beaches. Waves >2.5m produce dissipative beach systems with wide surfzones and shore parallel bar/s and channel/s. Breakers between 1 and 2.5m result in rip circulation and associated rhythmic morphology (crescentic bars, rip channels, megacusps, etc). Low waves (
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