Open AccessWAVE SHOALING CALCULATED FROM COKELET'S THEORY
Author(s) -
T. Sakai,
J.A. Battjes
Publication year - 1980
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v17.6
Subject(s) - shoaling and schooling , amplitude , wave shoaling , physics , kondratiev wave , mechanics , wave propagation , geology , optics , mechanical wave , longitudinal wave , oceanography
Cokelet's numerical non-linear theory for progressive, periodic gravity waves is applied to the two-dimensional shoaling of finite amplitude waves on a beach up to breaking. The shoaling curves so obtained are compared with existing shoaling curves calculated from different finite amplitude wave theories, and with existing experimental data. It was found that the shoaling curves calculated from Cokelet's theory predict higher wave height ratios than other curves. The agreement between the present curves and the experimental results is good except near the breakpoint, where the wave height of the present curves is larger than the experimental wave height.