Open AccessVELOCITY AND PRESSURE FIELD OF SPILLING BREAKERS
Author(s) -
M.J.F. Stive
Publication year - 1980
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v17.33
Subject(s) - momentum (technical analysis) , field (mathematics) , mechanics , pressure wave , flow (mathematics) , vector field , impact pressure , physics , flow velocity , classical mechanics , mathematics , finance , pure mathematics , economics
The internal velocity and pressure fields of quasi-steady spilling breaking waves have been investigated experimentally. The internal flow fields are shown to be in qualitative agreement with a model proposed by Peregrine and Svendsen (1978). Furthermore a quantitative comparison is made with nonbreaking wave theories. Measurements of the pressure field are presented, and interpreted semi-quantitatively using the vertical momentum balance. Finally, it is shown how the integral properties can be obtained and analysed.