VELOCITY AND PRESSURE FIELD OF SPILLING BREAKERS | Zendy

M.J.F. Stive | Zendy

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VELOCITY AND PRESSURE FIELD OF SPILLING BREAKERS

Author(s) -

M.J.F. Stive

Publication year - 1980

Publication title -

coastal engineering proceedings

Language(s) - English

Resource type - Journals

eISSN - 2156-1028

pISSN - 0589-087X

DOI - 10.9753/icce.v17.33

Subject(s) - momentum (technical analysis) , field (mathematics) , mechanics , pressure wave , flow (mathematics) , vector field , impact pressure , physics , flow velocity , classical mechanics , mathematics , finance , pure mathematics , economics

The internal velocity and pressure fields of quasi-steady spilling breaking waves have been investigated experimentally. The internal flow fields are shown to be in qualitative agreement with a model proposed by Peregrine and Svendsen (1978). Furthermore a quantitative comparison is made with nonbreaking wave theories. Measurements of the pressure field are presented, and interpreted semi-quantitatively using the vertical momentum balance. Finally, it is shown how the integral properties can be obtained and analysed.

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