Open AccessA MEASUREMENT OF SLOPE, CURVATURE, AND DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF WIND WAVES IN LAKE MICHIGAN
Author(s) -
Paul C. Liu
Publication year - 1980
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v17.26
Subject(s) - curvature , field (mathematics) , wind wave model , remote sensing , wind wave , meteorology , surface wave , geology , wave propagation , environmental science , marine engineering , computer science , engineering , telecommunications , physics , oceanography , optics , mathematics , geometry , pure mathematics
Wave recording activity among coastal and oceanic engineers has increased rapidly in recent years, and ample wave data covering a large number of gage stations are now available. Directional wave spectra, however, are relatively scarce. The detailed knowledge of directional wave characteristics that correlate with the simultaneously recorded wind field is needed immediately for a proper understanding of the generation, growth, and propagation of a wave field. The data are necessary for engineering design, for verification and improvement of wave prediction models, and for provision of appropriate ground truth for calibrating remote sensing measurements. This paper represents the results of an effort to fulfill this need.