Open AccessONSHORE-OFFSHORE SEDIMENT MOVEMENT ON A BEACH
Author(s) -
Peter Nielsen,
I.A. Svensen,
Carsten Staub
Publication year - 1978
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v16.87
Subject(s) - submarine pipeline , sediment , geology , flux (metallurgy) , sediment transport , diffusion , flow (mathematics) , current (fluid) , movement (music) , geotechnical engineering , suspension (topology) , geomorphology , hydrology (agriculture) , mechanics , oceanography , physics , mathematics , materials science , metallurgy , thermodynamics , homotopy , pure mathematics , acoustics
A theoretical model is developed for the movement of loose sediments in oscillatory flow with or without a net current. In the present formulation the model is two-dimensional, but may readily be extended to three dimensions. It is assumed that all movement of sediments occurs in suspension, and exact analytical solutions are given for the time variation of the concentration profile, the instantaneous sediment flux and the net flux of sediment over a wave period. The model requires as empirical input a diffusion coefficient e and pick-up function p(t), for which experimental data are presented. Two examples are discussed in detail, illustrating important aspects of the onshore-offshore sediment motion.