Open AccessWAVE POWER AND BEACH-STAGES: A GLOBAL MODEL
Author(s) -
Andrew D. Short
Publication year - 1978
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v16.66
Subject(s) - circuit breaker , geology , sequence (biology) , wave power , power (physics) , stage (stratigraphy) , meteorology , geography , engineering , physics , paleontology , electrical engineering , genetics , quantum mechanics , biology
A three-dimensional morphodynamic model of sequential beach changes Is presented. The model Is based on variations in breaker wave power generating a predictable sequence of beach conditions. The spectrum of beach conditions from fully eroded-dissipatlve to fully accreted reflective is characterised by ten beach-stages. Using the breaker wave power to beach-stage relationship the model Is applied to explain temporal, spatial and global variations In beach morphodynamlcs.