Open AccessRIP CURRENT SPACING AS AN EIGENVALUE
Author(s) -
Naoki Iwata
Publication year - 1978
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v16.47
Subject(s) - circuit breaker , surf zone , current (fluid) , line (geometry) , eigenvalues and eigenvectors , mechanics , rip current , momentum (technical analysis) , physics , mathematical analysis , geometry , mathematics , geology , oceanography , finance , quantum mechanics , economics , shore , thermodynamics
Mass, momentum and wave action conservation laws, including the radiation stress, are used to obtain a rip current spacing as an eigenvalue. A coastal region is divided into two parts: offshore region and surf zone separated by a breaker line. Only the case of normal incidence of the waves is considered. From the matching conditions of the two horizontal velocity components at the breaker line, we can obtain rip current spacing as a function of a nondimensional parameter characterizing the surf zone, for an arbitrary value of a parameter indicating the strength of horizontal mixing.