WAVELENGTH, WAVE VELOCITY AND SHOALING CHARACTERISTICS OF RANDOM WAVES

Fundamental properties of random waves determined by the zero-upcross method are discussed. Firstly, the wave length and the wave velocity are treated. Experiments are carried out with some supplemental definitions such as the spatial zero-up-cross method in a laboratory wave tank. Average values of K (= a ratio of measured wave length to theoretical one L /L , ) and R (= a ratio of measured wave velocity to e th J theoretical one C /C , ) are very close to unity though data are considerably scattered. But the relations between L