Open AccessWAVELENGTH, WAVE VELOCITY AND SHOALING CHARACTERISTICS OF RANDOM WAVES
Author(s) -
Akira Kimura,
Yuichi Iwagaki
Publication year - 1978
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v16.17
Subject(s) - wave shoaling , wavelength , zero (linguistics) , physics , shoaling and schooling , phase velocity , stokes wave , wave height , optics , wave velocity , group velocity , wave propagation , breaking wave , mechanical wave , longitudinal wave , geology , thermodynamics , philosophy , petrology , linguistics , oceanography , shear (geology)
Fundamental properties of random waves determined by the zero-upcross method are discussed. Firstly, the wave length and the wave velocity are treated. Experiments are carried out with some supplemental definitions such as the spatial zero-up-cross method in a laboratory wave tank. Average values of K (= a ratio of measured wave length to theoretical one L /L , ) and R (= a ratio of measured wave velocity to e th J theoretical one C /C , ) are very close to unity though data are considerably scattered. But the relations between L