Open AccessANOMALOUS DISPERSION OF FOURIER COMPONENTS OF SURFACE GRAVITY WAVES IN THE NEAR SHORE AREA
Author(s) -
Fritz Büsching
Publication year - 1978
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v16.12
Subject(s) - geology , dispersion (optics) , shore , storm , fourier transform , fourier analysis , surface wave , wind wave , seismology , geodesy , oceanography , physics , optics , quantum mechanics
Water level deflections ri (t) have been measured synchronously at some positions in a beach profile on the isle of SYLT / North Sea during severe storm surge conditions as well as at attenuating wave action. A steadily increasing wave period T in the upbeach direction, turning out from strip chart evaluations, is in accordance with the result of FOURIER syntheses. Near shore wave deformation is explained by ANOMALOUS dispersion of the frequency components.