Open AccessON THE GEOMETRY OF RIPPLES DUE TO WAVES
Author(s) -
M. Selim Yalin,
Emin Karahan
Publication year - 1978
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v16.107
Subject(s) - amplitude , geometry , mechanics , motion (physics) , plot (graphics) , physics , field (mathematics) , mathematics , geology , classical mechanics , optics , statistics , pure mathematics
The present paper is an attempt to determine a single curve for the prediction of the length of ripples forming due to wind waves in shallow waters. The curve is revealed by normalising the field and laboratory data supplied by various authors. The concept of the unified plot embodied by the single curve mentioned is developed by using dimensional methods and by considering the fact that the specific weight and the density of the cohesionless bed material do not affect the length of ripples in a detectable manner. It is shown that the present formulation of the length of ripples due to waves satisfies the requirement of transition into the corresponding formulation of the unidirectional flow ripples when the period and the amplitude of the oscillatory motion increase indefinitely, while their ratio (implying "the velocity") remains finite.