Open AccessPHYSICS AND MATHEMATICS OF WAVES IN COASTAL ZONES
Author(s) -
H. Lundgren
Publication year - 1976
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v15.50
Subject(s) - refraction , computation , reflection (computer programming) , energy flux , amplitude , boundary value problem , energy (signal processing) , flux (metallurgy) , mathematical analysis , physics , point (geometry) , space (punctuation) , boundary (topology) , geometry , classical mechanics , calculus (dental) , mathematics , optics , computer science , algorithm , medicine , dentistry , astronomy , materials science , quantum mechanics , metallurgy , programming language , operating system
This paper presents a discussion of four methods available for the computation of small amplitude periodic waves in coastal zones of arbitrary topography. With no reflections (or reflection from a single structure) the methods that proceed in space (Refraction and Propagation) or time (TJLmestep) seem the natural ones from a physical point of view. With repeated reflections, recourse must he taken to the solution of an Elliptic "boundary value problem. - It is suggested that a P-method based on (energy) flux lines and energy fronts be developed for cases where the R-methods give crossing orthogonals.