Open AccessNEAR-BOTTOM WATER MOTION UNDER OCEAN WAVES
Author(s) -
Robert Grace
Publication year - 1976
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v15.138
Subject(s) - acceleration , kinematics , motion (physics) , geology , wind wave , dispersion (optics) , mechanics , work (physics) , field (mathematics) , marine engineering , acoustics , physics , engineering , classical mechanics , mathematics , optics , oceanography , mechanical engineering , pure mathematics
A two-year ocean experiment involving wave-induced forces on a test pipe mounted on the sea floor [Grace and Nicinski (1976)] involved the measurement of various quantities other than the pipe forces per se. A pair of these involved surface wave characteristics and wave-induced water motion at the level of the pipe centerline but off to one end of the pipe. These wave-kinematics data have been combined, and the results of this work make up this paper in which the emphasis is on the deterministic approach to data interpretation. Presented are comparisons of the velocity and acceleration data with the predictions of Airy and stream function theories plus discussion of the dispersion of the field data. The primary intent of the paper is to suggest to designers of bottom-laid structures, such as pipes, how values of the peak velocity and maximum acceleration of the water motion associated with a non-breaking design wave of specified characteristics can be chosen.