Open AccessOCEAN WAVE STATISTICS FROM FNWC SPECTRAL ANALYSES
Author(s) -
Warren C. Thompson,
F. Michael Reynolds
Publication year - 1976
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v15.13
Subject(s) - statistics , wave height , wind wave , frequency distribution , spectral analysis , statistical analysis , meteorology , geology , remote sensing , mathematics , geography , physics , oceanography , quantum mechanics , spectroscopy
Climatological wave data that may be shoaled and refracted from a deep-water wave station can be compiled in two forms from spectral ocean wave analyses produced by the Fleet Numerical Weather Central at Monterey, California: (1) significant wave statistics, which are similar to statistical tables currently in use, and (2) spectral element statistics, which give the frequency of occurrence of energy densities contained in a matrix of 15 frequency bands and 12 direction bands. Experimental formats of both types of statistical compilations are presented, their properties are examined, and the coastal engineering applications of these statistics are discussed.