Open AccessTHEORY ON FORMATION OF RIP-CURRENT AND CUSPIDAL COAST
Author(s) -
Mikio Hino
Publication year - 1974
Publication title -
coastal engineering proceedings
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v14.52
Subject(s) - current (fluid) , field (mathematics) , instability , circuit breaker , rip current , shore , geology , flow (mathematics) , mathematics , geometry , mechanics , physics , oceanography , electrical engineering , engineering , pure mathematics
The hydrodynamic instability theory is developed on the formation of rip-current and cuspidal coast. The most preferred wave length is shown to be about four times the distance from the shore to the breaker zone. Typical patterns of flow field and bottom configurations are represented. Finally, the theory is compared with field observations.
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