Open AccessCRITICAL TRAVEL DISTANCE OF WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER
Author(s) -
Winfried Siefert
Publication year - 1974
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v14.24
Subject(s) - waves and shallow water , wave height , significant wave height , reef , geology , surface wave , water level , sea level , wind wave , geodesy , geography , oceanography , physics , optics , cartography
A new criterion for shallow water wave analysis is evaluated from prototype data off the German coast on the reef and wadden sea areas south of the outer Elbe river. Correlations of mean wave heights H with mean wave peri- - H ods T, and wave height distribution factors C. /•, = —l/3 t-^ respectively show that the mean periods and both complete height and period distributions of waves in shallow water can be expressed as functions of mean height and topography. So the mean wave height H proves to be the characteristic parameter for the description of the complete shallow water wave climate. The upper envelop of the values H = f (meteorology, topography) is defined as the case of fully developed sea, which leads to the function of the highest mean wave heights Hmax.