Open AccessTRANSFORMATION OF IRREGULAR WAVES IN SHOALING WATER
Author(s) -
Tetsuo Sakai,
Yuichi Iwagaki
Publication year - 1974
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v14.23
Subject(s) - shoaling and schooling , wave shoaling , wind wave , mechanical wave , mechanics , amplitude , physics , transformation (genetics) , energy balance , nonlinear system , gravity wave , wave propagation , longitudinal wave , geology , optics , chemistry , thermodynamics , quantum mechanics , oceanography , biochemistry , gene
In the numerical method of prediction of wind waves in deep water, Hasselmann's nonlinear interaction theory is applied. This method assumes the energy balance of individual component waves. However, the total energy balance must exist in the transformation of irregular waves in shoaling water. In this investigation, experiments were carried out on the transformations in shoaling water of composite waves having two components and random waves having one or two main peaks. It was found that the elementary component wave height of the composite waves and the elementary peak power of the random waves decrease with decrease in the water depth. This reason can be explained qualitatively by the theory of the elementary component wave height change of finite amplitude waves in shoaling water. The secondary component wave height of the composite waves and the secondary peak power of the random waves increase with decrease in the water depth. This can be explained qualitatively by Hamada's theory of nonlinear interaction in uniform depth.