Open AccessA LOW-COST INSHORE WAVE DIRECTION INDICATOR
Author(s) -
G. de F. Retief,
A.P.M. Vonk
Publication year - 1974
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v14.10
Subject(s) - gauge (firearms) , sensitivity (control systems) , measure (data warehouse) , simple (philosophy) , shore , marine engineering , geology , reduction (mathematics) , current (fluid) , flow (mathematics) , acoustics , computer science , remote sensing , engineering , mechanics , physics , geography , electronic engineering , mathematics , oceanography , data mining , geometry , philosophy , archaeology , epistemology
Although many attempts have been made in the past to measure the direction of propagation of ocean waves, a need for a simple, reliable solution to the problem has remained. The technique described here, intended for near-shore usage, makes use of a simple bottom-mounted flow direction indicator. The influence of rip and longshore currents on wave direction recordings is identified and a means of reducing these steady state current effects by a reduction in gauge sensitivity is presented, along with various possible recording and analysis techniques. Usefulness of the gauge is established as a simple engineering tool with certain limitations and examples are given of »'aire direction recordings related to meteorological data. A possible usage of the gauge FE an approximate sediment transport indicator is also proposed.