Open AccessHORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL WATER PARTICLE VELOCITIES INDUCED El WAVES
Author(s) -
Yoshito Tsuchiya,
Masataka Yamaguchi
Publication year - 1972
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v13.27
Subject(s) - wind wave , surface wave , gravity wave , geology , rayleigh wave , waves and shallow water , wave shoaling , mechanical wave , particle (ecology) , internal wave , particle displacement , mechanics , longitudinal wave , wave propagation , physics , optics , amplitude , oceanography
Measurements of horizontal and vertical water particle velocities induced by regular waves, wind waves generated by a wind wave tank and ocean waves in shallow water were made using a Doppler-type sonic current meter. For regular waves, the validity of wave theories such as Stokes and cnoidal waves is investigated by comparison between theoretical curves and the experimental results. For wind waves and ocean waves, power spectra of water particle velocities and cross-correlations between surface displacement and water particle velocity are considered, especially in the latter case, directional spectra calculated from both the records are compared each other.