Open AccessCHARACTERISTICS OF WAVES BROKEN BY A LONGSHORE BAR
Author(s) -
E. Clark McNair,
Robert M. Sorenson
Publication year - 1970
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v12.26
Subject(s) - bar (unit) , wave height , surface wave , wind wave , wave shoaling , range (aeronautics) , significant wave height , monochromatic color , waves and shallow water , geology , breaking wave , optics , physics , meteorology , wave propagation , mechanical wave , materials science , longitudinal wave , oceanography , composite material
A two-dimensional model submerged offshore bar was installed in a Texas A&M Hydrodynamics Laboratory wave tank Monochromatic waves with a range of heights and periods were generated at this bar for three different depths of water over the bar For each wave, water surface time-histories were measured at points before and after the bar and spectral analyses of these measurements were performed The analysis of each wave record yielded an equivalent wave height which is proportional to the square root of the wave energy per unit surface area The ratio of the reformed to incident equivalent wave height is shown to relate to the ratio of incident wave height to water depth over the bar The predominant periods of the reformed waves are found to be the same as for the incident waves but the presence of energy at higher frequencies is also observed The cause of these higher frequency waves is discussed.