Open AccessTOPOGRAPHIC CHANGES IN THE SURF ZONE PROFILE
Author(s) -
Choule J. Sonu,
Richard J. Russell
Publication year - 1966
Publication title -
proceedings of conference on coastal engineering/proceedings of ... conference on coastal engineering
Language(s) - English
Resource type - Journals
eISSN - 2156-1028
pISSN - 0589-087X
DOI - 10.9753/icce.v10.30
Subject(s) - surf zone , shore , geology , diversification (marketing strategy) , plage , field (mathematics) , geodesy , geography , oceanography , mathematics , marketing , pure mathematics , business
The conventional method of dealing with relationships between wave action and topographic response on a beach is to reduce the problem to a two-dimensional scheme that regards basic processes as taking place in a vertical plane normal to the shoreline. This scheme is valid only if the waves arrive at right angles to the shore and the nearshore contours are reasonably straight and parallel the beach. As these conditions are not realized in many cases another analytical method is necessary - one that recognizes effects of other than normal wave arrival and systematic patterns of diversification in nearshore topography. This study, based on a long period of field investigation on the Outer Banks, North Carolina, examines a three-dimensional approach. Observations from a long pier were used to explain nearshore topographic diversification and resulted in conclusions that were confirmed by subsequent field observation.